In the Land of Fire and Ice. (original version of the article World Motorcycles 5/2005- before correction)
-Where are you going, what is the purpose of your trip?
Russian officer asked sternly.
-Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky.
replied
-I will go first to the Magadan and then I tried to get up to Kamchatka.
- Cooo such, and this is good! Did you hear?
now turned to his colleagues.
want to go bike-to Kamchatka. Madman or what?
At this point everyone in the room erupted in loud laughter.
-Boy, as you get to Krasnoyarsk country it will be a success!
"said one of waiting for his turn driving while laughing heartily.
-In any case wriemienny entry I can give for 10 days.
confusion officer interrupted.
-Why, after all, I have a visa for three months.
-I said that I can give you a ten as you like for a long time to go to Moscow to the customs office there to give more. Disgusted
left the stuffy interior of the hut. Three hours standing in line at the border after some stupid document, which allows our bike for ten to stay in the Russian Federation. And what next? Problems, mandates? I could add
-arrange it on the spot. Why get upset later. Ula
stated, after hearing a description of the situation. To this end, we went to the nearest customs office, which was on our route-to Smolensk. From the preliminary findings showed that in the best case we can arrange the formalities required in two to three days. It was absolutely unacceptable for a hammering to Moscow and there could be no. In Moscow not załatwilibyśmy this faster, but only zrujnowalibyśmy financially. We decided to olaniu these bizarre requirements. Finally, all other documents we had in order. Born in us the hope that there will be more persons who control the motorcycle, and preoccupied with our plans and turned a blind eye to this little stupid piece of paper. After a night in Smolensk Hotel "Fenix \u200b\u200b " headed towards Moscow. The road to Moscow was built to celebrate the Olympics in 1980. Is equal to the broad, you can rip almost any speed considering only the radars. Drive through the metropolis itself is also not a big problem, you have to stick up for an impressive, a multi-passes and then you just careful not to pass Congress. Between Moscow and Vladimir came across a lot of repairs and accidents. That night, not zaznaliśmy still taste adventure. We spent it in Vladimir hotel Zolotoj Kolco . For Vladimir the road was a little worse, a little full of holes but still, we rode superbly. When the day began to droop toward end at a roadside bar, met with Konstantin - president of the club, "Del Ninyo from Niznekamsk which it is returned its stuningowanym Urals to rally in Moscow. Konstantin expressed its willingness treated to us at home on which the willingness przystaliśmy, except that after a few kilometers Ural suddenly refused to obey and there was nothing but break down tents in a field near the woods. When we talked by the fire from the forest could be heard rumbling and crackling of broken branches. Konstantin sprang to his feet in a hand wielding an ax and went to the battle cry of the attack. Striker in response to loud chrumkną and walked away as quickly as possible . Morning, we exchanged addresses and phone numbers, and we drove on a Konstantin waited for a friend who already was on its way to the parts needed for repairs. Ufa Before we liked a lot of the oil-rich areas characteristic " kiwakami " such as the American films only more colorful. On that day, four times the police stopped us. Twice the speed, twice could be said for socializing. For the speed The first time we paid 200 rubles and the second they let us without a mandate. Overall, the militia is rather nice set of traveling motorcyclists. Most of the checks carried out at the roadside stations DPS which are mostly located near large cities or border regions. Cheerfully answering all the questions are usually avoided any problems. Questions usually relate to performance and price of the motorcycle, destination, country of origin, living in Poland, etc. When in the late afternoon we drove in the Ural mountains unusual caught our attention on our roads, local driving maneuvers. It seemed that the hit of the summer is overtaken by a truck while the other soaring clouds of dust the truck side of the road, preferably uphill and even better that the passing of such a procession of cars started at all observed, moreover, in many cases. Hoary " gruzawiki 'best years are mostly behind us., Diesel engines passed has a horribly smrodzą this happens often smell of burnt on long descents lining brake. Not overthrow the mountains on foot, and at least that's what you can see the motorcycle. At night we stayed at the hotel which had supplied a sauna and a bear in klatce.Warunki in which the animal was kept made depressing effect on us. Going further passed monument Asia-Europe border. Also exchanged currency. Surprisingly, in a small seemed to be killed by desks town was a bank with professional service. In Russia, there is little problem with selecting a replacement currency or cash. In medium and large cities are the banks. ATMs or are no longer a rarity. The problem can be expected, of course, in less populated areas. The filling also do not need to worry. Station is a lot, the lion's share of them are sleazy stations in the old style, with barred windows, or even armor where your money slips into some odd drawers. More and more modern stations on the Western model of the shop, and friendly service. Behind the Urals Siberia begins, the typical Siberian landscapes: grasslands and wetlands birch forests. The movement is small, many of the posts DPS closed is locked. We were than surprised when this than from that detained us for speed. The conversation immediately took on a friendly tone. The officer is not fixed his mandate and we even shook hands in farewell while stating that we are "brothers Slavs." When the evening the police stopped us again-this time in Omsk, due to a small misunderstanding at the moment it became funny. The policeman said, waving vaguely at the club (instead of lollipops to stick to black and white stripes), which I interpreted as permission to continue driving. We started ... and the police for us in the chase. When we caught up they were not nice, they told me to get into the police car and awfully to zezłościli but calmly explained that I did not understand, I did not hear, I'm tired and besides, we have common ancestors (Slavs). We managed to extricate themselves from the oppression of non-cash, but I confess that I jumped the pressure. We left a few dozen kilometers from Omsk and stopped for night in a nice motel. The next day it rained heavily. We paid a ticket in a speed of 100 rubles. Met on the outskirts of Novosibirsk Chechen family traveling the old rickety car. A man and a woman, middle aged group of children. They began to weave a sad story of his life. During the war their house was destroyed along with their belongings and buying a new one because it was unrealistic to Tomsk went to a refugee camp. Sometimes getting from someone some money for gasoline and for food. There were times that when they had no fuel towing their trucks. Complained that the Russian schools do not take the Chechen children. It made us their grief and wspomogliśmy them financially. evening came a terrible thunderstorm. Find shelter in a motel near Kemerowa . Sipping a beer at the local bar, we observed an interesting phenomenon. Namely, when lightning struck the cable winding up the wall and sparks flew przygasało light. The next stop of our trip was courtesy of Krasnoyarsk where priests Claretian waiting for us Michelin Desert , oil stocks workshop facilities and accommodation. We spent two days here. During this time peacefully changed the tires and made the review of the motorcycle. Zasymilowaliśmy also with local motorcyclists who meet almost every evening at the " Kinapark Pikra " (in the warmer period of the year). Krasnoyarsk is quite nice and pleasant city. You can walk along the banks of Yenisei, relaxing in the beer gardens. From the hill on top of which is the orthodox chapel offers a beautiful panoramic view. But enough of the idyll-time to go further. Krasnoyarsk-Irkutsk road is very good. There we encountered only a few km gravel. Accommodation infrastructure is underdeveloped. When we pitched the tent wk rzakach mosquitoes plagued us in very large quantities. No chemical agents were not able to scare them. Proved to be very dangerous even settle physiological needs. The next night we spend at this time in Baikalsk mill where he works poisoning the water of Lake Baikal. As you can see in travel life over Lake Baikal is hard to find signs of the great extreme adventure. For stubborn could not even take a tent, if properly scheduled episodes. As we drove toward the Ulan-Ude caught our attention an unusual contrast with the surrounding white building on the left side of the road. We drove closer. The inscription on the plate affixed to the wall showed that the council is a historic Orthodox. The door came to momęt figure in white apron. And then what? Bakeries something you have done here or what? Passed through my mind. go over and ask what here now-decided. A woman in a white coat explained that it was created under communism psychiatric hospital today with two hundred piedziesięciu residents.
Zabajkale is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful regions of Russia. Section of Ulan-Ude-Chita is really real departure. The road winds between the mountains which often is covered with dense taiga, are also beautiful rivers and their backwaters. As dusk began
we pulled off the road in the direction of the renderer in the distance of the village. First encountered a man asked about the possibility of camping on the farm. Male a little wary though , said that there is no home but the conditions directed us to its neighbor that it received us very cordially. It was a skośnooki, stooped, elderly man. Opened wide the door and made a gesture inviting us inside. Wkródce the owner's wife appeared, brother and family friend. They invited us to dinner. Dinner was a soft, rich homemade dairy products. We learned that the village in which we find ourselves is completely inhabited by the Buryat. We were surprised a lot of knowledge possessed by the Polish people. In the morning goodbye handed over to them 150 rubles in gratitude. They were pleased and invited again. Even before Chita burst frame and aluminum rear mounting fender and lights. Fender and lamp przyczepiliśmy plastic bands, while the frame zespawał us a nice man for the equivalent of a pack of cigarettes. By the way a lot about the dangers nasłuchaliśmy czychających on us, still there. According of our interlocutor, even if by some miracle dojechalibyśmy to the borders of Yakutia, that's for sure we take care of us Yakuts cacy, because it's very bad people. The stories also showed that motorcyclists is a favorite snack for the bears. Also in the Chita during roadside checks police officers have expressed concerns about our life and health. I admit that once again listening to stories about marauding bears and started after the will lose patience. And without this talk I was apprehensive and Uli also sure it did not improve the well-being. His teeth and cursed in the spirit ... k ... wa, what the hell you
care, worry about yourself, you, nobody asks to go! Exactly the way for 138 kilometer per Chita definitely ended up asphalt. Gravel was initially very good, equal to so that you could easily "fall" stówką. Gradually started to appear more and more holes, which forced us to ever more sharply reduce speed, and finally in the vicinity of Czernyszewska slow down to 20-30 km / h. areas through which we drove were less populated. Large hilly areas. Embers of heaven poured down mercilessly, rises by tens of trucks made it difficult to breathe dust, scratching in the throat. Trees may also give a little shade was little. The Russians say that God created Yalta, Sochi and the devil Czernyszewsk and Mogoczi . And something in it. In Czernyszewsku money for a symbolic rented room on the block to which we arrived with an escort friendly policemen. Ms.
receptionist said that that day was 45 degrees and that at this time of year is quite normal in these regions. It's funny, yet most of us, Siberia is associated with frost and white bears and here-no problem, you can get sunstroke. The road towards Skovorodino was to say the least not the best quality. Surfaces are often represented fairly thick rubble which quickly tires clashed, sometimes they came too rocky. The motorcycle drove very slowly and carefully. The desire to drive faster calmed also view many cars on the roadside przycupniętych. The reason for these stops were usually torn tire. A naterzęnie movement was really big. Trail runs through here which flows into the country zeka cars imported from Japan. One of the drivers, "comforted" We think he has already ripped from Vladivostok three tires and that we have no chance to get anywhere on only one priest a tires. Going further we saw that in many places, intensive work which gives hope that in future the horse will be much easier that way. In the village Amazar miraculously got to the hotel from the cupola. He was even on-site bar and cold beer. The next day we met Roman and Julian of Tri coming from Magadan car mitsubischi Pajero. In a significant way was supported by our spirits. From their description showed that it would no longer continue gożej . Only on the Kolyma were attractions waiting for us in the form of water obstacles. shook hands and we went a August in your hand. For Skovorodino road has become much more equal, the movement declined. The trail ran through a sparsely populated mostly forest land. The woods were dense, coniferous. You could see the mountains. At the station borrowed crystal-clear water from the stream. A few dozen kilometers outside the town we encountered two men moving tracked vehicle. Geologists claimed to be seeking gold in the taiga. One of them was kind enough that allowed me to shoot from his shotgun into a traffic sign. In the region Tyndy was pretty good a few km of new asphalt. The town turned August clean and tidy. When offered the opportunity to stay in the hotel, we take advantage of it. For the apartment with all the comforts we pay 1,000 rubles. Oh my doggies salon. The district Tyndy jestzasięg GSM. For Tynda yet appeared asfat but of such quality that it is better to go wogule was not. That was close and lose by a camera which inadvertently got while driving between the fender and the front wheel. Fortunately, the damage has been only a cover. A large plaque told us the beginning of Yakutia. Chura ! Here we certainly ukatrupią. At the nearby trees were attached many colorful cloths and ribbons. This connected with religion have already observed the custom of Lake Baikal and the Zabajkalu. At the next DPSie go next inspection. The militiamen, this time it seemed like they wanted to find some holes in the whole but in the end forgiven. About wremienny entry fortunately do not ask. That day we were not the best feeling. The road deteriorated again, there is a lot of holes, as if from the cold. In the higher mountains of snow here and there in default. It got cold and gloomy. Skumulowało fatigue. Suer Tenere suspension is quite hard and at the end of the day we wanted to puke from the continuous shocks. Fortunately, in the town of Bolshoi Nimnyr we came upon a nice little hotel just. We could also regenerate in sucks. Ms. administratorka to comply with, God forbid, do not have to deal with Jakutami. -Do not stop where they are skośnoocy bad people-to-speak. Szajba the tap and they bounced. Then came her drunk husband who used the occasion expressed his unfavorable opinion on the political and economic situation in the country. All the next day we drove by the wild lands deserted. Gaps between the towns were often tens of kilometers. Surrounded by wildlife, we felt fantastic. It has long waited for such a route. Evening time we reached the village of Ulu , where perhaps they were all drunk and it seemed szurniętych or even retarded. Mustachioed, burly, kąpletnie pissed man introduced himself as Joseph Stalin. Like someone to tell you attached a Stalin that you know, then you will not move one-mumbled, shaking it in front of it back. As Ula nervous because of the bears numerous allegedly occurring in the area, and this time I wanted to find a bed under a roof. We were sent to the bar who led an elderly woman. She will take you to myself-people said. I walked into the musty interior dirty. Men who drink vodka lifted up from the table. - Oooo! How come? The Polish? Pour Pole, quickly give a glass for a Pole!
-No, thanks. I do not want vódki , looking for accommodation.
-Come on, here in the bar the night, pour vódki Pole!
-Okay, you know what, look around August still around. I said goodbye-and I began to withdraw from this shit.
-And so you find and order a drink with us, "said goodbye to one of them grabbing the breast including a woman . For the sake of peace
drove dozen miles away, and we pitched a tent in the woods. The road in the vicinity of Yakutsk was a bit more even. Again came the moment coverage. For while the Yakut few kilometers pavement was quite sandy. As the Roman, and Julian said that there might be a little gożej with food, just in case we made a small advance. I wanted at this point to explain that the problem lay in the fact that it is simply due to a smaller population occurred less frequently shops, bars wogule almost was not. In any event, the hunger will not die here. With the refueling there was no problem. Only that often tankowaliśmy niskooktanową bęzyne 80 or even 76 because there was another. Once milled occasions I spoke with okrytymi Jakutami-infamous Genghis Khan's descendants skośnookimi. They released me to be around the next day we passed many villages inhabited by them. Our attention was attracted by the characteristic Yakut yurts. Riders przeganiający cattle looked like they were alive, passed from time immemorial. They lacked only the sword. Very interesting was also viewed by us cmętarz with unusual tombstones. At dusk we arrived at Ustatty where was the nearest ferry. Along the way we passed through the mud ugrzeźniętego Kamaz. The way the last forty-kilometer stretch of steam cured and was miserable as a result of recent rain in places was quite grzązko. Tent pitched at a marina that was fenced in a piece of shore. In the morning we loaded up the rusting ferry age where we had to circumnavigate the missing thirty-kilometer stretch of road. On the ferry we obskoczyła Yakut intoxicated group who are, in fact, they were nice enough but that tormented me continuous questions about the bike. Champions are asked ten times about the same. It started raining so we pitched a tent on the deck. In the afternoon we met Sergei and his son Zaiczikowa Liosze. Wdaliśmy in the chat. Then when the evening we ate dinner in their van praised the newly purchased Kalashnikovs, version for the hunters. In these areas many people have guns for hunting. The store is rather difficult for fresh meat, morzna buy what najwyrzej tuszonkę. And what chodować animals in the yard near the woods, since there are plenty. After a night on the ferry we pulled on dry land in the vicinity of Chandygi. Zaiczikowie invited us to himself. Since the town Tiepłyj Kljucz in which they lived was the way we took advantage of the invitation. Once we were sitting in their house they began to feed us, so that nearly pękliśmy. Siberian probably due to the harsh conditions in which they live eat a lot more from us. Lots and best greasy. Still raining which does not bode well. Soon begin to have rivers and streams without bridges. It is better to wait until August Sierjoża rozpogodzi-advised. We have been to the morning, in the meantime oganiając from mosquitoes mentioned a broken spoke. Morning weather was unchanged but still went on. Kolyma highway which now jechaiśmy Stalin ordered built. They built it detainees "enemy people" who both work and existence in appalling conditions. When someone died during the operation was mostly buried directly in the way because it is known today through the bone. At the Kolyma in Stalin's time, there were many camps where the victimized people mainly in gold mining, platinum and lead. Among them there were also many Poles. When the first jets. Before you run over each of them to rozładowywaliśmy motorcycle if you do not drown all things. Cali moksha and Frost pitched zarwanego camp near the bridge in Kjubeme. At night the temperature dropped to 0 Bęzynową Grzaliśmy the stove. In the morning shaking from the cold I manage to go around a smashed bridge on the other side of the wide river. A motorcycle run there could be no. The town finds Sierjoże holidaymakers to kturego bearing got from one of the ferry passengers. Sierjoża invites us to himself. I'm back for hives that are very delighted that it did not freeze. Kjubeme town consists of several houses on the cross. Dozo buildings are destroyed or oposzczonych. Runs through here connecting the phone cord from the rest of the world Magadan. Are Here the device to operate a cable and a mini power plant for diesel. Sierjoża and his wife were engaged in the operation of all equipment, like most people. People living on the Kolyma are largely self-sufficient. Fish, hunt and here in Kjubeme chodują even small vegetables in greenhouses. After a day of waiting turned up two Yakut going Ural truck driven in three axes. Dogadaliśmy with them, our motorcycle and transported by river. But it was only half the battle because twenty-five km further was another large zarwany big river and a bridge. Yakuts just rode on the second page and not eager to help. After wstepych visual inspection, we concluded that pruba own journey is too risky and that we will wait for another large truck, or to lower the water level. For the latter is not because it still looked like it was raining. And that's how I spent four rainy days to nights returning to the country Letnikowów. During this time, only one brave journey took prube. Unfortunately Kamaz drive only the rear prawieże stuck in the middle of a river. Finally cleared up. Water clear subsided, she is transparent. In the meantime, several people suggested that we look for a place to cross to the left of the bridge because the river there is a lot broader and hence shallower. Yes we did. We got to the place where the water poured on a large area. Plenty of time between the islands looking brodziliśmy shallow water. In the end we managed to chart the right path. There she ran on a straight line but Swept huge circle around the heavily irrigated. Odczepiliśmy luggage and left with the intention of returning later after no. Ula went and I was going to walk the soul on the shoulder of the island to the island. Every now and then examined to be sure the way ahead. At one point a motorcycle immersed himself so much that our ears instead of the gang came to the engine gurgle. Fortunately, the bottom was hard and adhesive, free of major imbalances that makes the machine glided forward laboriously. When we got to the permafrost located on the opposite bank there was no end of joy. The sun threw snowballs and then "I was smoking gum" on the ice. We packed and moved on a motorcycle. Back To reach the main road had to be come quite a long steep slope wetland that was in addition a rather muddy and plowed deep ruts. Despite good tires buried after unloading a motorcycle but managed to push it. Finally we reached the route. Going further we drove the dirt by a number of smaller rivers and streams where there was so much that we did not want them to count. We saw many more frayed bridges. In the village Tamtor memorial is allegedly the world's lowest recorded temperature: -71.2 C We stayed there overnight in a fire station where fully sympathetic Jakut call. Morning full of leaded petrol to fill up 80 (no other) and we move on into the unknown. For Tamtorem began the real wilderness. Regularly appeared to force the stream. We passed on the road literally a few houses on the cross, and besides, there was nothing. Wilderness, mountains, taiga. In many places the snow was owed. Throughout the day, we passed only two cars. The driver of one of them did on our view of mine if he'd seen a ghost.
-And where did you get ye here, kids! The driver did not hide his enormous Urala surprise.
more careful-there will be deep puddles, try to be ride around the side because I potopcie-warned.
As it turned out they were not mere puddles. Usually spilled across the entire width of the road. The bottom was often muddy, muddy. Murky water hid deep ruts plowed by giant wheels of local trucks. Quite often on both sides of this lake was a swamp or dense forest which forced the truly alpine combined. Once we have made up something like a pavement made of thick branches to mud zassało our vehicle. In the evening, unfortunately, wanting
skrucić way open to the cautious Ula władowałem a motorcycle in the mud so głebkie no way that could not get out of trouble, quite the contrary. For each attempt to take the machine is bogged down even more. When the front wheel almost completely disappeared under the water got a really very funny. Przekopałem the cavity underneath the engine and dragged the two poles that way to prevent drowning our complete Tenery. The third pole propped her to become vertical and was getting dark as it were attacked by swarms of mosquitoes we started to break camp. Found it was best to do it on the road so as not to miss any of this rare car passing through here. Ignited a large fire. Bears are not supposed to approach the fire. The "good" atmosphere wykalkulowaliśmy that walk to reach the nearest human settlements will take us about three days, just in case, though no one was going long. To our great joy after less than two hours, he appeared Uaz "tablet", a van with four-wheel drive. They drove the two brothers-two of stout peasants. The motorcycle pulled out in a minute. Then we turned kind of event. Zaparzyli Brothers Tea on water from puddles. Tuszonkę feasting on bacon and various other delicacies, we talked late into the night.
-Raphael, Ula, come to us on the Kolyma River in winter. We have a big house, sucks, my wife is happy. Hunt a bear. Oropozycja jenego fell from them.
-Very happy to just know all of this takes money. I replied
-What money? How to reach us now you will have everything for free. How can we take from our guests money? Here we do not do that.
I was right in his words. Here, people help each other unselfishly. Those who have visited so far also do not accept from us a broken ruble. And yet the state holidaymakers entertained us for almost a week and even gave us food on the road, moreover, just as Zaiczikowie.
brothers agreed to that because for better roads remained only about eighty kilometers overcome this episode together. The next day we put our luggage to Uaza. With Ula came to the conclusion that it will be wiser and faster as the most difficult part will travel with his brothers Uazem. Besides Uli podobałały long time these cars and was an excellent opportunity to ride. Forsowaliśmy together numerous water obstacles. Again zassał motorcycle in a swamp. Without our friends would be a serious problem. We drove to the place where the road leading off the mountainside lowered. The situation was hopeless, like the more that a little earlier in Uaziku front wheel broke off a barrier was very difficult, even for off-road motorcycle. From behind the brothers drew up near the log surface. First pruba failed. Most of the logs flew sideways and the car podwiesił the chassis. When I finally managed to somehow withdrawn from the hole saw again drew up this time different, and somehow went! And now I am after all the slippery logs and branches of the garbage I had a ride. Crossing the momentum after I found it too risky. Przeturlałem through the cavity slowly to the edge. The front wheel did not want to jump to the top so one of the brothers quickly wyrąbał ax disturbing piece of land. Then it was a few interesting moments. The worst was the last river where he reached the border of immersion in water suction filter. With horror I watched as deeply immersed in a moving UAZ before me, I was confident that the utopias motorcycle. A few hundred yards through the mud on the other side it was no longer pure relaxation. Many times people are warned about the various gangs and mafias rosyjkich marauding on the road. And indeed, when after reaching the better route called federalką preparing dinner, our gang of Marmots osaczył czychający the leftovers. The brothers parted with regret. Both they and we were sad that we'll have to leave. It turned out that the station where we fill up no longer exists since quite a raru years. Kadykan town located near the look like the plague passed. Haunted abandoned blocks, garages, restałracja, wrecks of cars. Not a soul. Incredible view. When the federalkę wruciliśmy stopped a passing car just to buy a few liters bęzyny to the next station because he was still a large piece and we were driving to the fumes. The driver has not had too much to drain the fuel but they stopped a small bus. The bus driver flooded my whole tank (more than 20L). He did not accept me the money for fuel. Situations skwitował saying that here is the Kolyma River, there to help people. Frost and moksha we got to town Hołodnyj where przenocowaliśmy in a very nice family of Ukrainian origin. Raczyliśmy up with them to home made food and a Russian vodka that warmed us perfectly. These people were so hospitable and nice that it's hard to describe. The next day turlaliśmy slowly over rough mountainous terrain. Pouring rain was very cold. Tent pitched 336 km from Magadan just in the bushes. Amazing thing was the morning when we left from there a few kilimetrów. By way przeczłapał if anything big teddy bear. Finally, after more than a month we came to Magadan. 
now positioned to at the hotel. A few days were spent in examining all possibilities to reach to Kamchatka. After a stroll on the shores of the Pacific, we decided on a plane with a change in Khabarovsk because there was no direct flight. After another space of two days, we were finally Jelizowo Kamchatsky Airport about $ 1,000 poorer, but it was worth. The aircraft bay Awaczyńska and scattered throughout the area look great volcanoes. During transport, Super Tenere was a little scratched, the battery which was to become the vertical was wywrucony so that part of the electrolyte emptied, someone stole a decorative cap on wętyle, but we were expecting something much worse. Fold the motorcycle together, pour bęzyny and drive to the neighboring Kamczackiego Petropavlovsk. Accommodation prices are abstract, eg 3200rubli for ruhm room. When we assumed helmets before last visited our hotel, we were determined on a wild night out of town, but the lady from the reception it got us grief and offered us free sleeping in his mother's house that just came out. The house was not far away. Ms. Wika showed us everything and gave us the keys. Incredible hospitality and trust again.
-I will be at ten in the morning. As you previously traveled to podrzućcie me the keys to the hotel, the morning I'm on duty. -She threw While leaving with a smile. We shot the evening even after the city which in itself is not interesting. Impressed by the towering volcanoes over the area and especially the active volcano Awaczu fuming. When we met Lenin Square, the local riders who volunteered to assist us in technical matters and housing. We agreed that we will leave wkrudce Together on tour around the most beautiful parts of Kamchatka. The next day we moved into the apartment where he lived Honda Doninator riding with his girlfriend Sasha, and provisionally Wasiliną second Sasha is currently riding an old Africy Twin only in Kamchatka. In the garage, replaced the oil consumed in the rear wheel bearings, and I made a few other minor repairs. Guys riveted us to the rear new brake pads that chamulcowych zdarły to the plate. That afternoon we prepared to embark on a path. Wasilina was at home, joined us for the Honda Baja Liosza 250th A few dozen kilometers from Petropavlovsk asphalt breaks up and then are only szutry. We stayed in the village of Malki where is kęping in which there are thermal lakes. A very intriguing question, some were so hot that you could not go to them and right next to ice-cold stream flowed. When lying in the lake put his hand deeper into the bottom of almost burned, the ground was so hot. The next day the weather was not good and there is little we could naoglądać. We arrived at the Esso picturesque town in the mountain valley, which is reportedly a huge crater of an extinct volcano, of course. (At least so say the locals). We stayed in a comfortable small hotel pool having warm water fed from natural hot spring. Price per person was 350 rubles. I had to mention here because the ball carrier got such backlash that screws wachacz catch on. Morning we went to a local museum where we saw many interesting specimens of natural and folk. We liked most of the fish purse. A large part of the guide was the argument touting miraculous properties of toadstools that are the traditional indigenous odurzaczem Kamczatkl: Koriatów, Chukchi and Ewenów. Then we go back Kljuczi the village where he once again sticks to the hotel. That day the weather was so miserable that we saw almost nothing. The road leading to the Mouth Kamczatsk where we got the next day was a bit worse in places muddy or sandy. Wild forested areas. Along the way, two times przeprawialiśmy the river by ferry. In the town of captivated our attention almost cheerful houses in bright colors. On the way back around Kljuczi last ferry sailed us so we stayed on the shore. Our dinner was a huge fire roasted salmon kturego was given to us, and caviar-cut from the same fish. Red caviar and fish is probably the most wealth of Kamchatka and the most important product exprtowy. The sky was starry and clear. Finally, we could see the largest volcano in Kamchatka, Kluczewskaja Sopek 4700npm. This is a real giant, its upper parts are snowy. The whole makes a big impression. At one point our eyes appeared unusual light phenomenon. First, we were convinced that this is an invasion of extraterrestrial vehicles then came to the conclusion that a meteor shower. The error encountered later brought us Kljuczi resident. He explained that it is relatively close to the secret military base where they are fired and probably sputniks we saw the start of something like that. A short distance from Kliuczi We passed much buried by volcanic ash area. When the weather sometimes up to 140 przyspieszaliśmy except Lioszy which Honda has not developed such a speed. We already knew the way so we could afford it. Kurzyło at this amazing. Wruciliśmy to Petropavlovsk and stayed again with Sacha. In ten days the ship drifting away from where we had to get down to Vladivostok. During this time, walking zaliczyliśmy Awaczu climbing the volcano, we went after plarzy over the ocean, tropiliśmy Okiabrińska seals in the vicinity, moczyliśmy in the warm lakes and pools, and partied. We met more nice people mnustwo interesting. Was given to us, inter alia, because it diverted our gears are worn. When it came time to inspect the day of departure from said goodbye to przyjaciułmi. When loading a motorcycle when the motorcycle on a ship suspended from a crane dyndał reconciled to its loss. Fortunately, not stopped and both he and our dwujka became a six-day unofficial pasarzerami Container. The cost of a trip wyniusł 10,000 rubles. We slept in a separate cabin, we were fed four times a day, we were unfortunately seasickness. Sometimes the shift motorcycle trunks on the floor-so bujało. In the vicinity of Sakhalin have seen a large amount of dolphins that came alongside the ship racing and jumping out of the water. Then we saw in the distance, yet the coast of Japan. Much time is spent on the bridge where we apply all wyjaśnono devices. Chief engineer showed us a huge wielocylindrowy engine running under the deck. Between August and September, we arrived to Vladivostok where he located it in the club Iron Tigers MC. We met a lot of people, including Godzilla and cost of the Novosibirsk who made a living from the sale of cars imported from Japan, which exported to Vladivostok. I went back home and invited us to her. We visited a city that is not interested in us, I bought and replaced the front puncture, and finally we were on our way back. The village Szimanowsk to our surprise we arrived at virtually the asphalt and it is a good. On the way back we stayed for free with some people near the Chinese border and earlier in Khabarovsk in the hotel. For Szimanowskiem szutry again, the population average, varied landscape, often even slightly pagurkowaty gódzysty. No problems with refueling, again sleeping in the wild in namiocie.Generalnie not dwell on what happened because the road was really decent. From time to time you even had to hit the snack bar and a hot thing. . Only episode Skoorodino-Czernyszewsk again gave us a hard time. The way back home, we passed almost without any stress. We met bikers from Cheating and Ulan-Ude, who of course ugościli us what's ours. In Ulan-Ude have visited Buddhist temples, then we are not interested in nothing but a rapid return to the country. In Krasnoyarsk, we switched tires on the road. In Novosibirsk, we stopped in at our friends known in Vladivostok. Our chain and sprocket and need replacing as soon as possible. We managed to buy both. Replaced oil and filter too which also failed to find. Thus prepared we went on our way. In Omsk, came to an unpleasant incident. Militia zarządala $ 500 fine for obsolete wriemienny entry. I offered three hundred rubles, but it is so annoyed that officers locked me in a room inside the barred DPS. When at the beginning refused entry there, one of them aimed at me reloaded the machine and started me poszturchiwać barrel, well, it went. We had to finally give them 2,500 rubles to the odczepili.
chain mounted in Novosibirsk was felerny. Near Moscow with regret that we noticed is nadpęknięty in five places. It did not look good. Doturlaliśmy to the hotel in Wladymirze. After wstępym discernment, stood in the fact that in the area there is no one who could be our pomuc. So I called at the beginning of the known departure of Konstantin. Presented him the situation. Konstantin recommended rest and wait until morning because the time was already late. Morning called back and gave the address of a store in Moscow, where he had such a string. Quickly we got the bus then the subway, we made the purchase and it was the problem. Leaving from Russia were no longer punished for wriemienny entry which more than two months earlier ended his ważność.Tym time gentlemen turned out to be enthusiastic about our trip. Finally, after nearly three months of wandering and driving twenty-six thousand kilometers dowlekliśmy home. Many days had to elapse before I came to myself. I had the impression that it was all a dream and I could not believe it really happened. But you do not, contrary to common sense and instinct self-preservation, so wartto realize their ideas, even if they seem ridiculous and people laugh at them or knock on the head, not believing that he could go. http://picasaweb.google.com/Lysol1978/Kamczatka2004
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